The article claimed that vitamin C serums are pro-oxidant, reactive with copper/phosphates/EDTA, and will work for a short time and then stop working. Oil Dissolution Theory- To cleanse without damaging the skin, and keeping hydration. they form a 1:1 complex that turns the solution yellow, rendering both compounds useless. And I also believe that you shouldn’t use vitamin C serums with niacinamide, but aside from that, I don’t worry too much about combining them with much else. Use left/right arrows to navigate the slideshow or swipe left/right if using a mobile device. If your serum does contain L-ascorbic Vitamin C, the formula's pH level is key. Also, be skeptical of serums that are yellow or brown in color. 1. And this means that dietary vitamin C may not promote vitamin C synthesis as it normally does. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that soothes your skin and provides relief from skin burning caused by inflammation. Has your vitamin C serum ever gone bad before you had the chance to use it … Weijun Li, Liang Xu, Xiaohuan Liu, Jianchao Zhang, Yangting Lin, Xiaohong Yao, Huiwang Gao, Daizhou Zhang, Jianmin Chen, Wenxing Wang, Roy M. Harrison, Xiaoye Zhang, Longyi Shao, Pingqing Fu, Athanasios Nenes, Zongbo Shi. Vitamin C serum can become a pro-oxidant when exposed to atmospheric oxygen, so just by living on Earth you are putting yourself at risk when wearing a Vitamin C serum. DON’T use serums sold in clear bottles. So if you have any of these skin ailments, and are using a vitamin C serum, then its time to re-think your regimen. (2016). I have yet to encounter a study demonstrating application of decayed dehydroascorbic acid has any negative effect. It reduces fine lines, battles signs of aging, boosts collagen production, and protects your skin from free radicals. Once vitamin C is used, more is needed for cells to function properly. On paper, it sounds like it would be tough to fall in love with Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum. However, phosphates contain both trace sources of iron and copper, both of which elicit a pro-oxidant reaction from vitamin C. If you ever had to use a certain medication long-term you may have noticed that the effects were most pronounced in the beginning, and waned over several months of use. This brown color leads people to think that the vitamin C serum may be pro-oxidant and damaging to the skin, but this is not the case. However, when vitamin C absorbs free radicals, it becomes dehydroascorbic acid, and then decays. When the … A. To avoid these side effects, pick a gentle serum that is formulated for sensitive skin. On their own they are fairly harmless, although for some they can be drying to the skin and hair. Each molecule of vitamin C contains two electrons available for use. Adding onto point #1, we can say that many compounds found in cosmetics are further eliciting vitamin C to become a pro-oxidant. You can still use it if you want, but it won’t do as much for your skin and, “very rarely, oxidized vitamin C products can even cause slight yellow discoloration of the skin,” Dr. Hogan says. After loss of a second electron, the resulting oxidation product, dehydroascorbic acid, can be regenerated or may decay (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2003). Puri, P., Nandar, S. K., Kathuria, S., & Ramesh, V. (2017). OUMERE products do not contain any ingredients that would cause oxidation to the skin, which is why our products act as anti-inflammatory agents and have been reported to reduce redness, inflammation and improve the signs of rosacea and other inflammatory skin ailments. Secondly, niacinamide and vitamin C neutralize one another. Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that is both created and metabolized by your cells. Despite this, not everyone can reap the many benefits of … Vitamin C is a beauty-boosting antioxidant that’s known for stimulating your skin’s collagen production, brightening dark spots, and repairing free … I'm an outsider of the traditional skin care industry because I do not have a background in business, my background is in biology. Flaky skin is not entirely bad for your skin as it is only dead skin in most cases. Suitable for all skin types, this lightweight serum combines 20% vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, and mild fruit acids to increase cell turnover and gently exfoliate the skin. Today it’s vitamin C, tomorrow, who knows. This is not a reaction that needs a very high temperature or a ton of UV light to be induced, either. Vitamin C is touted as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cream. Information posted should not be construed as personal medical advice. I advise just using the UV-R serum for a couple days because its high concentration of anti-inflammatory extracts will calm you skin down and reverse the oxidative damage caused by the vitamin C serums. 3 Benefits of Vitamin C Serum. When we topically apply vitamin C to our skin, and our skin comes in contact with the air, which contains iron due to pollution, we are inviting a pro-oxidant reaction to occur. While in some circumstances vitamin C can act as a pro-oxidant after it reacts with metals and potentially lead to collagen destruction, vitamin C is also known to have effects that are the exact opposite: 1. Copper is another ingredient that has generated a lot of buzz as of late because of research that has found some anti-aging effects when topically applied. When vitamin C encounters iron a biological reaction, known as the Fenton reaction, is initiated. Dermatologists, bloggers, and beauty enthusiasts around the world are raving about vitamin C. Why? The Fenton reaction is the pivotal reaction in the oxidation of membrane lipids and amino acids, and in the reactions where biological reduction agents are present, such as vitamin C. Our skin comes into contact with iron every day. I am looking at skin care from a biological standpoint, and not from a marketing one. Furthermore, it requires little vitamin C to have it act as a pro-oxidant, and a lot of vitamin C to act as an anti-oxidant. Science Advances, 2017; 3 (3): e1601749 DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.1601749. Expertly formulated with vitamin C (from Australian Kakadu plums, no less) means double the brightening. That brown color happened because the serum oxidized, and oxidation occurs in all serums containing vitamin C. Oxidation is a destructive process (this is how rust occurs), and when you put a vitamin C serum on your skin, it will cause oxidation and skin … As far as your skin is concerned, vitamin C is "a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals," explains board-certified dermatologist Patricia Wexler. It’s not that argan oil is bad, it’s just not good enough to put in a skin care formula where space is limited and results are important. If twice-oxidized vitamin C (dehydroascorbic acid) is applied topically to the skin, the skin cells will reduce some of the compound back to vitamin C (Journal of Biological Chemistry, 1995). Vitamin C is a long-studied ingredient that’s known for brightening, protecting, and nourishing the skin as a potent antioxidant. Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh. Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 4(48), 7895-7901. du Vivier, A., & Stoughton, R. B. So I prefer to use them separately. Statements made herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Your best safeguard to minimize harm is to avoid molecules that interact with iron to form damaging pro-oxidants. Chicago. While I have full respect for the Oumere blog, Paula’s Choice, and others I have disagreed with in this article, I believe that vitamin C serums are one of the best tools you can have for brighter, tighter skin. Prevents Changes Due to Photoaging. Skin Inc Supplement Bar Vitamin C Serum Vitamin C derivatives are a good alternative to L-ascorbic acid because they are more stable and resistant to oxidation, so they're less prone to degrading and changing colour in the bottle (or on your skin!). Vitamin C is also a known brightener and using it regularly has the ability to even out skin tone. " Before I go into this, yes, I know that I sell a vitamin C serum. Receive a complimentary Travel Set with your OUMERE purchase of $400 or more. Therefore, if one product out of 50 in a brand's line contain essential oils, cayenne pepper, or any other damaging ingredients, then the line is not trustworthy and doesn’t deserve your hard-earned money. One of the most common questions I get asked by customers is, "when is OUMERE going to make a vitamin C serum?" If you notice that your serum has turned orange or brown, it is time to purchase a new bottle. Vitamin C on its own is a potent antioxidantthat soaks up free radicals and prevents the oxidative damage that results from UV light and other environmental stressors, as well as normal biological processes 2. Once it gets exposed to light and air vitamin C starts breaking down, and you’ll know it’s gone bad when it not only stops doing all those things you bought it to but also tints your face/clothes/pillows like a bad fake tan. A pro-oxidant is the opposite of an antioxidant. In a previous post on ingredient red flags, I mentioned that the best way to delineate between a true anti-aging skin care company, and one that is just out for your cash (at the additional cost of your skin's health) is to look at the ingredients. After your skin looks like it has improved, follow the following routine: No. Radiation research, 145(5), 532-541. (2016). Shop the 29 best vitamin C serums for brighter, glowing skin in 2020. They also tend to be gentler, due to their non-acidic pH levels. Air pollution–aerosol interactions produce more bioavailable iron for ocean ecosystems. If you are just looking for a proper skin care regimen, then just use a serum that has been heavily researched with a balance of healthy oils and extracts. Although the Paula’s Choice blog and others disagree with me, I don’t dispute the literature — In the presence of UV light and oxygen, the two compounds combined (L-ascorbic acid and niacinamide) may generate pro-oxidant hydrogen peroxide. The purpose of this blog is for skin care-related reviews and tips only. Posts are not intended to diagnose, treat, or cure disease. Often regarded as the gold standard of vitamin C serums (a category that’s constantly expanding, thanks to research about the many skin benefits of the antioxidant), SkinCeuticals’ most beloved product will run you $166 and has become a point of near-obsession in the skincare dupes community, with legions of beauty fanatics searching for a less expensive version that provides the … To summarize again, the rumor pro-oxidant vitamin C becomes damaging to the skin comes from the idea antioxidants absorb free radicals; after a certain point, they must be supersaturated and release free radicals instead. It is also safe to assume that since water contains iron contaminants, in general, that much of the water used in your skin care contains iron too. Vitamin C is an essential cofactorthat’s required for enzymes that crosslink and stabilise collagen (proly… So when you eat foods high in vitamin C, you get the health benefit of the vitamin donating electrons, and thus preventing oxidation of tissue, lipids, protein, and DNA. Chen, C., Fan, S., Li, C., Chong, Y., Tian, X., Zheng, J., ... & Yin, J. J. That chemist is given certain priorities by the higher-ups: feel, smell, appearance. Vitamin C on its own can act as an anti-oxidant. Causing you to age faster, because you are unnaturally stimulating collagen by adding a stressor to the body. (1996). The concern with combining copper and vitamin C is greater (by some research) than combining iron with vitamin C. From Buettner and Jurkiewicz: “But because copper is -80 times more efficient as a catalyst for ascorbate oxidation than iron, in typical phosphate buffers it is the adventitious copper that is the biggest culprit in catalyzing ascorbate oxidation.”. Opt for derivatives packaged in tubes and bottles to get the most bang for your buck. For maximum stability, serums with L-ascorbic have to have low pH levels (less than 3.5), meaning it’s more acidic. Collagen protein firms up the skin for a healthier younger look. Platinum nanoparticles inhibit antioxidant effects of vitamin C via ascorbate oxidase-mimetic activity. Cosmetic Skin Solutions Vitamin C + E Serum Advanced Formula. Applying vitamin C to the skin can promote healing and reduce signs of aging. Vitamin C's ability to readily donate electrons, and thus acting as an anti-oxidant also means that it readily reacts with other molecules, which has consequences that aren't always good. If it smells sour or rancid, it’s no good. Following are the most common ones available on the market: L-ascorbic acid (LAA) Serums with an LAA form of vitamin C as an active ingredient are most popular due to their effectiveness. But it’s so unstable, it goes bad quickly. To which my answer always, without faltering, is: Never. Vitamin C serum should come packaged in a dark glass or opaque bottle to protect it from light exposure. Smell: Vitamin C serum is typically odorless. If a self-proclaimed anti-aging line contains cytotoxic agents like essential oils, then they are not motivated by consumer health and wellbeing, they are just a marketing company with a product to sell. When vitamin C acts as a pro-oxidant, the consequences include irritation, inflammation, collagen and elastin breakdown, and acne. And my final word is that skin care is just like every other industry out there, and every industry is just looking for the latest and greatest way to take your money. Why risk your skin’s health for something that we will probably all cradle our face in our hands 20 years from now at the very thought of using? Its cause is a deficiency in vitamin C. If vitamin C did in fact produce a tachyphylaxis-like effect, with the same dose causing less collagen to be produced over time not only in our skin but in our internal organs and blood vessels as well, we would all be screwed. I've sat in on quite a few meetings with skin care giants during the process of picking a product, and they are all the same. A majority of customers who have come to us with damaged skin, including acne, redness and bacterial issues had one thing in common: The use of vitamin C serums. That product (and a few alternatives) is taken to the heads of the company, they try it out few out for a few days or a week, send the final pick to mass-production, and then you get your final product on store shelves. The Scientific Papers Supporting Vitamin C Serum's Skin Benefits Are Flawed. Talk to our experts by calling 1 … Now, with that said, there was an article on the Oumere blog promoting the idea that vitamin C serums are bad for your skin. Khadi Vitamin C face serum is rich in powerful antioxidants that repair the skin and also reverse cell damage. (1975). How to Choose a Vitamin C Serum. If you are concerned about collagen growth, use a daily chemical exfoliant. Catalytic metals, ascorbate and free radicals: combinations to avoid. Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection. Another dupe that offers the same percentage of the vitamin cocktail, this serum from Cosmetic Skin Solutions is … According to the FDA, iron is a significant pollutant in the air and in the water, and from recent research from the University of Birmingham: "Human activities may have led to an increase of atmospherically soluble iron in the oceans by several times since the Industrial Revolution.". Your body does not store vitamins, so taking more when you are already 'saturated' means that no additional benefits are obtained. So, please, I am going into this as unbiased as I can. Effects of air pollution on the skin: A review. Due to this, you might get flaky skin during the first few days of usage. Take scurvy, for instance. The insouciance towards marketing is the reason why I don't use argan oil in my products. When the first is used, the resulting molecule actually becomes more stable than other free radicals and can serve as a free-radical scavenger. Start by cleansing and toning your … It is not intended as and does not substitute for medical advice. Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in your skin and is essential for the production of collagen.. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, co-exist to protect your skin from free radicals, including reactive oxygen species (ROS), that are formed when your skin is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Phosphates are everywhere in cosmetics, from haircare, to foundations and primers, to cleansers, and have a multitude of functions, including balancing the pH of a formula, emulsifying water and oil ingredients, and enhancing the lathering effect of a product. Just don’t pick them off as it can lead to pulling off live skin, … There is also iron and other metals in makeup and sunscreen, which can further compound the oxidizing effect of vitamin C serums. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, I personally do not use niacinamide with vitamin C. the two compounds combined (L-ascorbic acid and niacinamide) may generate pro-oxidant hydrogen peroxide. The specific form of vitamin C I’m talking about is L-ascorbic acid, because it’s the strongest and the most well-studied. What doesn’t happen is a bunch of biologists and associated scientists with profound knowledge on skin care and health pour through countless published studies, weighing the pros and cons of each ingredient, go through countless experiments and human testing, and after several years formulate a product based on their sound results, and then bring it to the head of a company to sign off on. So although copper is not something you are likely to encounter every day in terms of environmental contaminants, the likelihood of it being in your cosmetics (including skin care) is becoming greater due to it’s increasing popularity as an anti-aging ingredient. In the presence of catalytic metals, vitamin C reacts with those metals causing a pro-oxidant effects, specifically, vitamin C reacts with oxygen, producing superoxide that subsequently dismutes to produce harmful by-products such as hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). This brown color leads people to think that the vitamin C serum may be pro-oxidant and damaging to the skin, but this is not the case. OUMERE doesn't make a vitamin C serum, and here are the reasons why. If not stabilized, vitamin C and other antioxidants can become oxidized upon prolonged exposure to light or air, turning brown. Vitamin C serums are used to "promote collagen synthesis", which isn't possible when done through skin care. Each molecule of vitamin C contains two electrons available for use. When mixed together in aqueous solutions (since both are water-soluble vitamins), they form a 1:1 complex that turns the solution yellow, rendering both compounds useless. Using a vitamin C serum will not have the effect of boosting collagen if you are not deficient in vitamin C, but for those who are deficient (at any time) it will desensitize your body from making collagen. First, let me tell you what does not happen. My conclusion from vitamin C serums is that they are the product of viral marketing, and are a gimmick at best and a cytotoxic agent at their worst. Archives of Dermatology, 111(5), 581-583. None of which translates to skin health but rather to marketability. One point I do agree with the Oumere blog post about is that vitamin C can react with other compounds. On the other hand, I personally do not use niacinamide with vitamin C. Unlike EDTA, copper, or phosphate, niacinamide is generally present in quality skincare products in concentrations of 1-5%. This serum for skin also contains Hyaluronic acid, grape seed, witch hazel and chamomile. Platinum nanoparticles inhibit antioxidant effects of vitamin C via ascorbate oxidase-mimetic activity. Some of the common side effects include itching, redness, swelling, and a tingling sensation. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, 83(4), 415. Lastly, niacinamide works best at a slightly higher pH range (4.5-5.5) than vitamin C (4.5 and under). Furthermore, you as the consumer need to do your research because in order to have a trustworthy line, all of their ingredients in all of their products need to be safe. Ever notice that vitamin C serums turn brown after sitting on the shelf for a month? Chen, C., Fan, S., Li, C., Chong, Y., Tian, X., Zheng, J., ... & Yin, J. J. EDTA contains 9.7-19.4 uM of iron per 50mM sample, which is enough to elicit the Fenton reaction described above. With 15% pure vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and jasmonate deritives, Lancôme's vitamin C serum will help even your skin tone and protect the skin barrier from free radicals with … That said, this fact does not make me a completely biased writer — if I found convincing evidence that vitamin C serums were in fact bad for your skin, I would immediately pull it from the market, and replace it with something else. If your skin has been inflamed from use of vitamin C serums due to their oxidizing effect, the solution is the following: Give your skin a one week break and then follow an anti-inflammatory skin care regimen. They send that list of ingredients to a chemist (with likely no knowledge beyond intermediate college biology) who makes a cream/serum/cleanser that contains maybe 1-5% of those ingredients, and 95-99% filler (thickeners, solvents, preservatives, emulsifiers, etc). 1. 9, (dilute for damaged skin) To rebuild, repair and strengthen skin, including collagen. However, some of dehydroascorbic acid will also decay. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that works wonders for the skin. Applying a vitamin C serum may boost collagen production, resulting in an overall tightening effect. Experts say to go with a vitamin C serum—because it really works. Vitamin C serum is a natural skin care ingredient that is often found in high-end beauty regimes, and Vitamin C serums, creams and lotions are popping up everywhere. Ceolin, V., Ghia, C. (2014). The only way to safely boost collagen in the body is by preserving the collagen you have, and this is done through healthy lifestyle choices and proper skin care. And as far as high-quality serums go, this one happens to be comparably wallet-friendly. Because v itamin C is a potent antioxidant, it’s a great option to treat and prevent effects of photoaging.A study of 19 patients between the ages of 36 and 72 years who had Fitzpatrick skin types I, II and III, and mild to moderately photodamaged facial skin were assessed. It is for the very reason highlighted above: marketing, scientists with no advanced knowledge of biology but are rather acting as "cooks in the kitchen", and companies driven by sales is why every major brand on the market has a vitamin C serum. Find out more about how vitamin C serum with ferulic acid can benefit your skin. Vitamin C's propensity to become a pro-oxidant when in contact with metal is concerning from a skin-care standpoint because the metals vitamin C react with are metals our skin encounters often. A reader asked me to debunk the article, or at least share my thoughts on it. OUMERE Skin Care is not intended to diagnose, cure or treat any ailment. The Ordinary’s serum ($12.90, Sephora.com) is a highly-stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative that has been shown to brighten skin over time. Why Vitamin C? Sullivan, R. J. Naturally, the most significant confusion lies in choosing a product based on its price and efficacy. What happens is the opposite: you deplete your body's collagen by using it. Hello, Sign in. Many of these products also cost an arm and a leg. What really happens is a group of businesspeople, marketers, and advertisers sit in a room, and this panel debates ingredients to put in their latest product based on the trendiest buzzwords and marketable content in the industry at the moment. Puri, P., Nandar, S. K., Kathuria, S., & Ramesh, V. (2017). Instead, supplementing with vitamin C throughout your life has been shown to keep scurvy (and other signs of vitamin C deficiency) at bay. The Fenton Reaction: pro-oxydant role of vitamin C.
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